By far and away my favorite way to squander a weekend afternoon is lounging around in Plaza Francia in front of the Recoleta Cemetary- and this past weekend both of my afternoons were spent doing just that. Luxuriating in laziness is just the perscription for recovering from a hectic work-week and from staying out until sunrise (which honestly is what even the most sensible and sane portenos do on weekend nights).
On Saturday Frank, Leah, and I packed my dependable Northface mochila with a blanket, some yerba, sugar, bombilla, and mate; and with noventa centavos for the bus fare in each hand, we waited for the not so dependable colectivo 59 to take us across town, where it stops just a block from the park. We moseyed slowly through the food vendors tempting us with pan relleno, sweet cakes, roasted peanuts, alfores galore, walking past the multitude of artisans in the expansive craft fair and stationed ourselves in our usual shady spot in a big grassy central space. Shortly thereafter, Sebastian joined us for some mate- I much prefer drinking mate with natives so that I don't look like the huge tourist poser clinging to my adopted culture that I sometimes am. Nonetheless, it was I who prepared the mate and passed it around, Sebastian claiming to know less about the process than I- yeah right.
As we sipped from the gourd we watched the circus of other park goers around us. Jugglers, tightrope walkers, and acrobats fill the park and hone their already quite impressive skills. Bongo players, dog walkers, coupled cuddlers, picnic eaters, hand standers, nap takers, people watchers, gossip makers, pot smokers, and newspaper readers are scattered around the park, all taking some respite from the gridlock of city life. It is well after sunset before everyone lazily clears out, recharged and relaxed- and again ready to dance until 6 AM.
Sunday we were back for more passive people-watching, but this time with a certain spectacle in mind. Note: if you happen to be in Buenos Aires on Sunday take my advice- go to the park, spread out a blanket in the grass, read the fat Sunday edition of Clarin, buy a cheesy pan relleno or some churros for refreshment, and wait until around 5, when you will hear some drums and odd stringed instruments start playing. It is time to watch capoeira.
While this blog will generally stick to all things Argentina, I've got to tell you about this martial art, which is very Brasilian and very sexy. Fluid and flexible bodies are inverted and twisted in play-fight dancing peppered with plenty of stunning acrobatics. Warning, it might make you feel a tad guilty about those churros you just devoured. A huge crowd stares smiling and slack-jawed at the show and everyone revels in the buena onda of the afternoon.
On our way home we all daydreamed of how awesome it would be to master capoeira. Out of the three of us, you can put your bets on the chances that it will be Frank who learns (though he already has something of a headstart with his black belt in Kung Fu). As for me, I'm afraid the only sexy brasilena flair I will incorporate into my routine are my new purple and maybe too trendy Havaina flip-flops. Ah well.
A quick congratulations to Leslie, you are marrying into one very hot culture.
Photos credits: Frank Wan
3 comments:
Yep many times I am a tourist in my own city and a foreigner in my own culture.
It would be nice to see photo of that tinny little pretzel.
By the way, Where did u land with the 17 bus?
Thank you for your last two posts which are about two of my favorite things about the South American continent. Partaking in both capoeira and all you can eat beef restaurants left me sore and exhausted. Despite this, I would love to try them both again.
Hi,
I saw you capoeira photo and I was wondering if I could get your permission to use it...in mini and black and white for an icon in my book? With reference to you? my website is jessicatalbot.net gracias
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